Sage Green Boho Crochet Sundress Free Pattern

This is a midi-length sundress with a fitted bodice and a flared A-line skirt. The construction uses half double crochet for the bodice, three distinct stitch textures across the skirt, and braided straps with a removable belt. You will work from the top down on the bodice, then pick up stitches and crochet the skirt downward in joined rounds.

The dress features a gorgeous ombre effect moving from sage green at the waist through mint in the middle to deep forest green at the hem. If you have been wanting to try a wearable crochet garment with interesting colorwork and texture changes, this sundress delivers all of that in a straightforward construction method.

I would rate this pattern as advanced beginner to intermediate. The individual stitches are simple, but you will need to manage color changes, work in the round, pick up stitches along a finished edge, and pay attention to stitch counts. If you have completed at least one wearable garment before, you will be comfortable here.

Project Overview and Finished Measurements

This sundress is worked in three main sections. First, you create two identical bodice panels worked flat in half double crochet ribbing, then seam them together at the sides. Next, you pick up stitches along the waist edge and work the skirt downward in joined rounds. Finally, you add braided straps and a removable belt with wooden bead and tassel details.

The pattern is written for size Medium with these finished measurements:

Bust circumference: 36 inches (91.5 cm)

Waist circumference: 28 inches (71 cm)

Hip circumference at fullest skirt point: approximately 60 inches (152.5 cm)

Bodice length from shoulder to waist: 14 inches (35.5 cm)

Skirt length from waist to hem: 22 inches (56 cm)

Total dress length excluding straps: 36 inches (91.5 cm)

Size customization tips appear at the end of the pattern for those needing adjustments.

Materials You Will Need

Yarn: Worsted weight, 100% cotton or cotton blend, approximately 1,800 to 2,200 yards total

Color A (Deep Forest Green for hem border): approximately 450 yards

Color B (Medium Sage Green for mid-skirt and bodice): approximately 650 yards

Color C (Pale Mint or Light Sage for upper skirt lace zone): approximately 400 yards

Color D (Cream or Off-White for lace accent): approximately 100 yards

Hooks:

US size J (6 mm) for the body and skirt

US size I (5.5 mm) for bodice ribbing

Notions: Yarn needle, at least 6 stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape, 4 to 6 wooden beads approximately 8 to 10 mm diameter, blocking board and rust-proof pins

Yarn Suggestions

Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Grass, Sage, Mint, and Ecru works beautifully. This yarn has excellent stitch definition, is machine washable, and holds its shape well.

Paintbox Yarns Simply DK Cotton used doubled gives worsted weight and offers a huge color range for custom ombre matching.

Drops Safran used doubled provides a fine mercerized cotton that gives firmness for the bodice while staying drapey in the open lace skirt sections.

Any smooth, plied, worsted weight cotton or cotton-acrylic blend that achieves gauge will work. Avoid fuzzy fibers as they obscure the stitch texture detail.

Gauge

Getting gauge right is critical for a wearable fit. Please make a 6-inch swatch in each stitch pattern, block it, and adjust hook size if needed before beginning.

With J (6 mm) hook in half double crochet:

14 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm)

10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

With J (6 mm) hook in single crochet grid (hem pattern):

15 stitches = 4 inches (10 cm)

16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm)

Even a half-stitch difference per inch compounds significantly across 150-plus stitch rounds in the skirt.

Abbreviations and Definitions

Let me walk you through each abbreviation you will encounter:

ch (chain): The foundation stitch that creates a row of linked loops

sl st (slip stitch): Insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once

sc (single crochet): Insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops

hdc (half double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through all three loops

dc (double crochet): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through two loops twice

sp (space): An open area created by chain stitches

ch-sp (chain space): The hole under a chain from the previous row

st/sts (stitch/stitches): Individual loops on the hook or in the fabric

sk (skip): Pass over a stitch without working into it

rep (repeat): Do the instructions again

pm (place marker): Put a stitch marker to track your place

blo (back loop only): Work into only the back loop of the stitch

RS/WS (right side/wrong side): The front and back of your work

yo (yarn over): Wrap yarn around hook

rnd (round): One complete circuit when working in the round

tog (together): Work two stitches as one to decrease

inc (increase): Work 2 stitches into 1 stitch

t-ch (turning chain): Chain stitches at the beginning of a row to reach the height of the next row

Special Stitches Explained

Lace Shell (Used in Upper Skirt Zone)

This creates the beautiful open lace band near the waist:

1. Skip 2 stitches

2. Work 5 double crochet into the next stitch

3. Skip 2 stitches

4. Single crochet into the next stitch

This 6-stitch group creates one lace shell repeat. The shell fans into an open arc. On following rounds, each shell is anchored into the center dc of the previous shell, creating a staggered lace fabric.

Basket Stitch Square (Used in Mid-Skirt)

This creates a simple woven check texture:

1. Single crochet into first stitch

2. Chain 1, skip 1 stitch

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 across or around

4. On the next round, single crochet into each chain-1 space from the previous round, and chain 1 over each sc from the previous round

The offset creates that lovely woven basket appearance.

Braided Cord (Used for Straps and Belt)

1. Cut 6 strands of Color B, each approximately three times your desired finished cord length

2. Fold strands so you have 3 groups of 2 strands each

3. Anchor the fold with a slip knot or pin to a stable surface

4. Braid the three groups in a standard 3-strand braid

5. Knot or sew the ends firmly, then trim to neaten

Surface Slip Stitch (Used for Neckline Edge)

1. With right side facing, insert hook from front to back through the edge stitch

2. Draw up a loop of yarn

3. Pull through the stitch and the loop on hook simultaneously as a slip stitch

4. Move to next stitch and repeat

Pattern Instructions

Bodice Front Panel

The bodice is worked flat from the top edge downward. Begin with Color B and the I (5.5 mm) hook for tighter fabric.

Foundation Chain: Chain 64.

Row 1 (RS): Hdc in third chain from hook and in each chain across. Turn. (62 hdc)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as stitch throughout bodice), hdc in blo of each stitch across. Turn. (62 hdc)

Rows 3 through 35: Repeat Row 2. Each row: (62 hdc)

After Row 35, the bodice front panel should measure approximately 14 inches from the foundation edge. Do not fasten off. Place a locking stitch marker in the last stitch and set aside.

Checkpoint: The front panel measures approximately 14 inches tall and 17.5 inches wide (62 stitches at 3.5 hdc per inch).

Bodice Back Panel

Work exactly as Bodice Front Panel above. (62 hdc per row, 35 rows total)

After Row 35, do not fasten off.

Seaming the Bodice

Hold the front and back panels together with wrong sides facing outward (right sides facing each other). Using Color B and a yarn needle, whipstitch the two side seams together along the long vertical edges. Leave the top edge (neckline) and bottom edge (waist) open.

Turn the bodice right side out. The total circumference at the top neckline edge is 124 stitches (62 front plus 62 back).

Neckline Edging

With RS facing, Color B, and J (6 mm) hook, join yarn at one side seam at the top edge.

Rnd 1: Ch 1. Sc evenly around the top opening, working 1 sc into each stitch around. Join with sl st to first sc. (124 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Join with sl st. (124 sc)

Fasten off. Weave in ends.

Waist Edging and Pickup Round

With RS facing, Color B, and J (6 mm) hook, join yarn at one side seam at the bottom (waist) edge.

Rnd 1: Ch 1. Sc evenly around, working 1 sc into each stitch around the waist opening. Join with sl st. (124 sc)

Now you will decrease from 124 to 98 stitches across two rounds to bring in the waist.

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Work 4 sc, sc2tog, repeat this 6-stitch group around. Work the final 4 stitches as sc. This round has 20 decreases. (104 sc)

Rnd 3: Ch 1. Work 16 sc, sc2tog, repeat 6 times around. (98 sc)

This 98-stitch waist round is the foundation from which the skirt grows.

Checkpoint: The waist opening should measure approximately 28 inches in circumference.

Skirt Zone 1: Lace Shell Band (Color C and Color D)

Switch to J (6 mm) hook for all skirt sections.

Before beginning the lace section, you need a stitch count divisible by 6.

Transition Round A (Color C): Ch 1. Sc in first 24 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in remaining 25 sts, 2 sc in last st. Join. (102 sc)

Lace Shell Rnd 1 (Color C): Ch 3. Skip first 2 sts. 5 dc in next st. Skip 2 sts. Sc in next st. Repeat (skip 2, 5 dc in next, skip 2, sc in next) around. You will work 17 complete shell repeats. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (17 shells, 17 sc anchors)

Lace Shell Rnd 2 (Color C): Ch 1. Sc in same st as join. Skip 2 dc. 5 dc in center (3rd) dc of next shell. Skip 2 dc. Sc in sc-anchor of previous round. Repeat around. Join. (17 shells)

Lace Shell Rnds 3 and 4 (Color D): Repeat Lace Shell Rnd 2 with Color D for 2 rounds. (17 shells each round)

Lace Shell Rnds 5 and 6 (Color C): Return to Color C. Repeat Lace Shell Rnd 2 for 2 rounds. (17 shells each round)

Lace Transition Round (Color C): Ch 1. Work 1 sc into each dc and each sc around, working 2 sc into the center dc of each shell. Work one additional sc increase at one point. (120 sc)

Checkpoint: The piece should measure approximately 7 inches from the waist.

Skirt Zone 2: Basket Stitch Mid-Skirt (Color B and Color C)

Basket Rnd 1 (Color B): Ch 1. (Sc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st) repeat around. Join. (60 sc, 60 ch-1 spaces)

Basket Rnd 2 (Color B): Ch 1. (Ch 1, sc in next ch-1 sp) repeat around. Join. (60 sc, 60 ch-1 sp)

Basket Rnds 3 and 4 (Color B): Repeat Basket Rnd 2. (60 sc, 60 ch-1 sp each round)

Increase Round 1 (Color B): Work in plain sc, placing 2 sc into every 10th stitch. Work 9 sc, 2 sc in next, repeat 12 times. (132 sc)

Basket Rnds 5 through 8 (Color B to Color C transition): Work 2 rounds Color B, then 2 rounds Color C in basket stitch pattern. (66 sc, 66 ch-1 sp per round)

Increase Round 2 (Color C): Work in plain sc, placing 2 sc into every 11th stitch. Work 10 sc, 2 sc in next, repeat 12 times. (144 sc)

Basket Rnds 9 through 14 (Color C): Work 6 rounds basket stitch with Color C. (72 sc, 72 ch-1 sp per round)

Increase Round 3 (Color C): Work plain sc, placing 2 sc into every 12th stitch. Work 11 sc, 2 sc in next, repeat 12 times. (156 sc)

Basket Rnds 15 through 18 (Color C): Work 4 rounds basket stitch. (78 sc, 78 ch-1 sp per round)

Checkpoint: The piece should measure approximately 16 inches from the waist. Circumference is 156 stitches.

Skirt Zone 3: Dense SC Grid Hem (Color A)

Hem Transition Round: With Color A, work 1 plain sc in every stitch and ch-1 space around. (156 sc) Then increase to 168: work 12 sc, 2 sc in next, repeat 12 times. (168 sc)

Hem Rnds 1 through 24 (Color A): Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Join. Work 24 rounds of plain sc. (168 sc each round)

Hem Picot Round: Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sc, ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch-3 to form picot) repeat around. Fasten off. (42 picots spaced evenly)

Belt

Cut 18 strands of Color B each measuring 60 inches long. Divide into 3 groups of 6 strands each. Anchor one end and braid the full length. Knot each end. Thread 2 wooden beads onto each knotted end, knot again below beads to secure. Trim ends to 3 inches and unravel the cut ends into a small tassel. Repeat on other end.

Total belt length: approximately 50 inches.

Belt Loops

At each side seam at waist level, use Color B and J hook:

1. Insert hook through the side seam from front to back at waist level

2. Pull up a loop of Color B

3. Ch 5

4. Sl st back into the seam 1 inch lower to form a loop

5. Fasten off and weave in ends

Repeat on opposite side seam. Thread belt through both loops.

Straps

Cut 12 strands of Color B each measuring 42 inches long. Divide into 3 groups of 4 strands each. Braid to approximately 14 inches finished length. Knot both ends securely.

Strap Placement:

Front: Sew one end of each strap approximately 3 inches from center front of neckline edge, one strap on each side

Back: Cross the straps and sew the opposite end of each strap to the opposite back corner of the neckline, approximately 3 inches from center back

This crossing creates the X-back strap configuration. Pin straps in place and try on before sewing to confirm placement and length.

Size Customization Tips

To size up: Add 8 stitches to the foundation chain of each bodice panel (4 per panel per size grade). Work 2 additional rows to lengthen the bodice if needed. Add increase rounds to the skirt every 8 rounds rather than 10 to 12 for faster flare.

To size down: Subtract 8 stitches from the foundation chain of each bodice panel. Spread increase rounds further apart in the skirt.

To lengthen the skirt: Add additional basket stitch rounds in Zone 2 and add 4 to 8 additional plain sc rounds to Zone 3 before the picot hem.

To shorten the skirt: Reduce basket stitch rounds in Zone 2 by 6 to 8 rounds and reduce hem sc rounds proportionally.

Finishing and Blocking

Weave in all yarn ends securely, splitting the ply of the yarn with your needle for extra hold at color-change joins.

Wet block the finished dress by soaking in cool water for 20 minutes. Gently press out excess water in a towel without wringing. Lay flat on a blocking board and pin to finished measurements. Allow to dry completely (12 to 24 hours) before wearing.

Blocking evens the stitch texture, opens the lace zone beautifully, and sets the drape of the skirt.

Care Instructions

Machine wash cold, gentle cycle, in a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry, as heat will cause cotton to shrink. Do not hang to dry while wet as the weight may stretch the bodice. Iron on low heat with a pressing cloth if needed.

Time to Enjoy Your Sundress

This crochet sundress pattern brings together so many satisfying techniques: the ribbed bodice for structure, the lacy shell section for visual interest, the textured basket stitch for that gorgeous mid-skirt detail, and the dense hem for beautiful drape. The ombre color effect is absolutely stunning, and those braided straps and tassel belt add the perfect boho finishing touches. Expect to spend 40 to 60 hours on this project, but every moment is worth it when you slip on that finished dress.

Thank you so much for choosing this pattern for your next project. I truly hope you love making it as much as I loved designing it. If you create this sundress, I would absolutely love to see it! Tag me on Instagram or share a photo in my Facebook group.

If this pattern caught your eye, go ahead and save it to your Pinterest boards so you can find it when you are ready to start. And please drop a comment below if you make one. I love hearing about your finished projects and seeing all the beautiful color combinations you choose!

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